Along a similar vein, my coworker keeps raving about a little toy salt shotgun that he uses to kill flies in his house.

I built one of these (shoutout to V1Engineering) and a $20-$50 budget will get you maybe 10% of the way there.

As if youre not already throwing out sets of batteries and buying new ones every time they go dead.

They can be good but the voltages don’t always match alkaline cells so you can sometimes burn through them quicker than if you’d use standard alkaline.

If this charger is like my NiteCore, it can charge each of the 4 banks individually.

9V batteries are absolutely obsolete and only exist still because of smoke detectors and theyre always low on charge even right out of the package. Same with C and D batteries. AAA and AA still have their uses though.

At some point they can just stick a lithium cell inside the remote and add a charge port

Obvious troll account.

Note that opening a port gives full access to that port to the next higher Network. Opening a port directly to the Internet is therefore insecure and not recommended.

It says so right there.

There are multiple ways of exposing Jellyfin to the outside - the most common ones are:

forwarding its Ports directly to the internet (not recommended!)

forwarding through a Reverse Proxy

using a VPN connection to enter the Network

use a VPS to Reverse Proxy to your home network

And there.

This smug mentality that security is unnecessary when exposing ports to the open internet reminds me of people who think its fine to drive drunk because “I’ve done it dozens of times before and nothing happened!” It also reminds me of the mentality of tech company VPs right before they have a massive data breach. It’s quite absurd to read.

Previously you could pay a one time fee to watch remotely on Android and iOS without having the Plex Pass and now it sounds like they’re rolling this into the Plex Pass and asking users to pay again.

Not necessarily the same drive but the same pool. I have a ZFS pool with 6 drives and can use hardlinks just fine.

This is also alluded to by the fact that he’s attending university in the Netherlands and it probably seems normal to him because everyone else in his sphere is also wealthy living in Manhattan.

Agreed. My work offers me the option to add a spouse or children or both.

Today I have a huge bottleneck in unpacking and moving. I’ve got 1gb fiber and can saturate it, getting a complete iso in just a few minutes, but then it’s another 30min plus waiting for that to actually be usable.

Are you doing this all manually or using the *arr suite? For me, this process takes a minute or two depending on the size of the files with Proxmox and ZFS but even previously on Windows 10 with SnapRAID it was quick.

Its honestly pretty small for what you can pack inside but they do have smaller options like the Node series. The 304 is around 8"x10"x14" with room for 6 drives.

The third alternative (and best IMO) is to buy a PC case with lots of drive slots and transfer everything into it. With a NAS you’re going to pay a ton of money for the NAS itself which is just laptop-equivalent hardware and a fixed number of drive bays meaning you can’t expand it when it fills up without buying more expensive hardware, and you’ll also be forced into buying matched drives. With an HDD enclosure, you’re spending less money but again fixed on the number of drives while also being somewhat unreliable due to the USB connection.

I use a Fractal Design Define 6 midtower case which can hold around 12 HDDs. For hardware I bought a mobo with the most SATA ports I could get and began slowly buying drives as my storage pool filled up, eventually needing an LSI HBA card to expand the number of SATA connections. This is the best value IMO as the cost is comparable to buying a NAS, you can add drives as you go with a much higher drive capacity, the connection is rock solid, and you can run real PC hardware.

It was definitely not fun stringing Cat6 through the attic, but knowing myself, I probably wouldn’t have stayed on top of battery changes and I also wanted 24/7 recording since a battery powered camera can miss movement and start recording late or not at all. I also need a doorbell camera still but I’ve had trouble finding one that checks all the boxes.

It sounds like a fun project but I dont know if I’d rely on it for security purposes. Plus with the cost of Pis now you might as well but a full fledged camera.

I have Amcrest PoE cameras hooked to an Amcrest NVR for 24/7 recording and also Frigate running separately tied to Home Assistant to record clips and send notifications when people are out front/back of my house. It all works really well thus far after about a year of use.

Ive had decent luck watching things stuck at 99.9% and having it work fine. Sometimes it’s just an .nfo file or the like thats missing.