Sense & Sensibility 🤓
Get it? Because it’s a period piece?
I’ll see myself out
Sense & Sensibility 🤓
Get it? Because it’s a period piece?
I’ll see myself out
“What the fuck is the internet?”
Then Ben Affleck would show them movie poop shoot dot com to demonstrate
Bahnnngggg
My solution for this type of situation is MicroBin running on my home network from a non-standard port, with a port knocker to open and close the port when needed.
My router handle DDNS so I can always contact my home network easily. I port-knock to trigger an iptables command on the router to forward traffic to the MicroBin host.
I also have my phone set up to connect via openvpn to my home network so that I can remotely do things like start and stop services, set port forwarding rules, etc.
Have you enabled Developer Options=> USB Debugging?
You can turn it off again after. Instructions here: https://developer.android.com/studio/debug/dev-options
In theory you could take frequency response measurements inside your car and use those :p
On my Edge+ 2023, there is a tile in the pulldown menu for Dolby. It may be hidden; go to “rearrange tiles” to add or remove it"
"
The AutoEQ project is actively updated with a repo on GitHub. You may be able to download the “GraphicEQ” file from this page Search that page for “Jabra Elite”
The DUMP setting can usually be enabled via ADB (simple connection to a PC). Instructions here if you search for “Enhanced session detection” on Wavelet’s site
You can use WebADB without installing anything on your PC.
It’s not just Moto. I dislike Dolby Atmos for everything except improving the sound of small speakers (laptops, phone speakers, etc) or when the media itself is recorded and mixed with it in mind
I find most of what Dolby does to be ridiculously bass-heavy and destroys the mids. That includes their headphones. You lose a lot of detail and the sound stage becomes muddy. It’s plenty wide but so overwhelmed by bass that other details are lost
IMO it’s overpriced basic-consumer-focused crap that takes advantage of people who think what they need is just more bass
I have a moto and hate Dolby Atmos for headphones
Instead, turn that shit completely off and get an app called “Wavelet”. Use the AutoEQ function with your headphones model.
The purpose of the AutoEQ is to return audio to “studio reference” EQ based on the measured frequency response curve of the model of headphones you have
If it still sounds bad to your ears then there are two possibilities:
The hardware is defective. You could try getting it replaced
Your old phone has settings that were so bass-heavy that your sense of what’s “right” has changed
I recommend trying out AutoEQ on another device that you know works. Make sure that all other audio processing is disabled when using AutoEQ. This will give you a good baseline to compare against
On Windows you can get AutoEQ using EqualizerAPO + HeSuVi (a front-end for setting up EqualizerAPO to enable custom virtual surround sound and AutoEQ)
So I’m Federated, So What?
Definitely this one lol
Truck-kun trying to make a new fediverse themed anime
Reincarnated to Save Social Media
I mean to say that the connection attempt is failing because the traffic is never reaching the server.
There is no traffic on Port 8081 in those logs
Yeah your iptables is already set to up ACCEPT by default meaning no blocking.
My next step would be to determine whether the traffic is reaching the target machine. Look into how you can monitor inbound traffic and verify whether the server even sees the inbound connection attempt
First obvious question: do you have a firewall enabled?
From a terminal, type “iptables -L” and if there are any rules there (rather than just category headers) you will probably need to allow inbound traffic through the firewall
Just got back from visiting Japan including Nara Park. Can confirm all of the deer had antlers. Every single one, accounting for age
Oh boy, let’s take this piece by piece…
DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT A LAWYER AND THIS IS NOT LEGAL ADVICE
First: let’s talk about the difference between copyright, patents, and trademark
A patent protects a method of doing something - like a novel piece of code, or a newly invented drug formula - from being duplicated and used or sold without your consent.
Copyright protects creative works - like art, books, and computer software - from being mimiced. It literally deals with the rights to copy something
Trademark protects brands - like a logo or company name - from being used by other people for profit. It usually deals with marketplace confusion, as when someone creates a competing product with a similar logo to try to benefit from the logo’s recognition and popularity.
So, with that said, what are YOU dealing with?
Well, since you’re not selling software or utilizing anything from the WatchDogs game universe, you’re pretty much free and clear on both patent and copyright.
What about trademark?
Well, on the one hand, you are not competing with Ubisoft in any way, nor are you attempting to represent yourself as related to WatchDogs. So, by the letter of the law (in the US), they don’t have a valid complaint.
However, trademark under US law has this funny feature where an entity that holds a trademark is required to vigorously defend it when they become aware of potential infringement. This is to prevent the selective application of trademark. That is, if I know John is using my trademark and I don’t go after him, then Steve uses my trademark too, I can’t suddenly claim to have an interest in defending it when I didn’t care before. Steve can point at the fact that I didn’t go after John and say “you already gave up your trademark by failing to enforce it”.
So how does this impact you? Well, unfortunately, even if you are technically allowed to use “dedsec” under US law, if Ubisoft has a trademark on the term “dedsec” specifically, AND if someone at Ubisoft became aware of your use of their trademark, they would likely come after you for trademark infringement just to cover their ass. You might even win in court, but it would cost a whole lot of money that you would likely never be able to recover.
The good news is that the very first step in a trademark dispute is a cease and desist letter. They’ll demand you stop using their trademark. At that point you can either comply, refuse, or offer to settle the matter by selling them the domain.
What you do with this information is up to you.
Troll mode: Rip the first 5 minutes of each movie then splice in Rick Astley
Troll activist mode: Rip the first 5 minutes of each movie then splice in Richard Dawkins’ The God Delusion live reading
Troll comedian mode: Rip the first 5 minutes of each movie then splice in Monty Python’s The Life of Brian
Activist mode: Find a set of movies to rename that teach about the harm religion has caused
Ethical absolutist mode: Refuse to host them, and explain why
Non-confrontational familial support mode: Give Mom a unique user and make the god movies only accessible to that user
In all seriousness it depends on what your priorities are. Is it more important to you to provide judgement-free support to your mom so she knows she can rely on you, or is it more important to try to reduce harm in the world by deplatforming harmful media? Or maybe it’s more important to try to teach your mom what’s wrong with those movies and you can come to an arrangement where she can watch those movies only if she agrees to watch movies you choose in equal amounts (since you can track it) to counteract the propaganda?
What is most important to you?
That’s a non-trivial number of devices, so I would recommend a decent router that will last into the future, including service upgrades. Especially if anyone in the house is gaming and streaming movies at the same time
I recommend purchasing the modem and router as two separate units.
For the modem, because you have symmetric gigabit service, you’ll need one that supports gigabit upstream. That means the less expensive SB8200 is out. Instead, you’re looking at the ARRIS SURFboard S33. You can also find a comparable product from Netgear, the CM2000
For your router, I personally like and trust Asus. Their user interface is robust but user-friendly, and their firmware is well supported by the home networking community (including a stellar ‘expanded’ version called AsusMerlin that frequently has features pulled into the official firmware)
While you could go with an older model that only supports WiFi 5 (AC), those models have reached end-of-life and will only receive critical security updates. Instead, it’s worth spending a bit more for the WiFi 6 (AX) version.
The minimum you’ll want to support a symmetric gigabit connection like what you have is the Asus RT-AX86U. However, to support possible higher speeds in the future, and to get the most rock-solid performance, I recommend the Asus RT-AX88U. This is what I personally own for my symmetric gigabit connection
NOTE: There are older versions with the same model number that have extra LAN Ethernet ports (8 total) and no 2.5Gbps port. Do NOT get them! There are known issues when using ports 5-8 on these units
Again, you could find a similar product in the Netgear Nighthawk brand.
Anything above that is going to be extra bells and whistles. Things like extra WiFi bands, stronger radios, more 2.5Gbps ports, support for link aggregation, and some one-click gaming features that I personally think aren’t worth the money.
Depending on the size of your home and your personal use case, you may also find value in adding mesh WiFi nodes to your network. Asus and Netgear both have their own implementations here. Asus’ version is called AiMesh and is pretty seamless. All of their modern routers can act as the primary mesh node.
Personally I do not game on WiFi, so I went with 3x Asus ZenWiFi AX Mini (XD4) mesh nodes. They can be connected wirelessly to the main router, or by Ethernet to reduce latency. If I were going to be gaming on WiFi, I would have gone with the beefier ZenWiFi AX (XT8) nodes instead
Hope that helps, and let me know if you have any questions! Happy to go into more detail on whatever you need
FiveThirtyEight, specifically:
https://projects.fivethirtyeight.com/2024-election-benchmarks/